RED WINE LAMB STEW


This is Roger Vergé's south of France take on the boeuf bourguignon, except there is no beef in sight. 

This is Roger Vergé's south of France take on the boeuf bourguignon, except there is no beef in sight. Here it's lamb, cut into large chunks and marinated with onion, tomato, aromatics, bacon and pork rind, then sealed into the pot with a simple bread dough before it goes into a very slow oven. That seal is the whole point. It traps every bit of steam inside, so the pot cooks under its own gentle pressure for hours without losing a thing. When it's ready, you crack the dough open at the table, which is half the fun of the dish.

Vergé always served this with garlic toast on the side, and once you taste the two together, garlic toast dunked into that rich, meaty sauce, you'll understand why. This is a dish that rewards patience. Make it the day before if you can. Like most red wine stews, it's better the next day.


SERVES 4 to 6

INGREDIENTS

For the stew

  • 1 kg (2.2 lb) leg of lamb, cut into large chunks (about 100 g/3.5 oz each)

  • 100 g (3.5 oz) smoked bacon

  • 50 g pork rind, from the bacon or a separate piece

  • 1 onion, roughly chopped

  • 3 garlic cloves peeled and bruised

  • Roughly 2 tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped

  • ½ tbsp coarse black pepper

  • 1 large bouquet garni (celery, thyme, bay leaf, parsley, a piece of leek and a strip of orange peel, tied together)

  • 500 ml (about ¾ bottle) full-bodied red wine, such as Shiraz

  • 150 ml (10 fl oz) beef stock

For the seal

  • 200 g (7 oz) plain flour

  • 100 ml (3.5 fl oz) water

For the garlic toast

  • 1 or 2 whole garlic bulb, with each clove peeled and germ removed

  • A few tbsp olive oil

  • A few slices of French bread, not too thick and toasted


MISE EN PLACE

Cut the lamb into large chunks, about 100 to 120 g each, and have your stockpot ready, large enough to hold the meat and marinade comfortably with its lid close by. Cut the pork rind in small cubes then Blanch it in salty boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain and set aside in the fridge. Have your bouquet garni tied and ready.

METHOD

  1. Place the lamb in the bottom of the stockpot, then add the whole garlic cloves, onion, tomatoes, black pepper and bouquet garni. Pour in the red wine, just enough to cover everything, and stir well so the tomato and wine combine evenly with the meat. Tuck the bouquet garni down into the liquid. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 1 hour (I did 2).

  2. While the lamb marinates, blanch the garlic cloves for the toast in boiling salted water for 5 minutes, then drain, refresh the water and repeat for another 5 minutes. Drain again, then pound the garlic with a little olive oil using a mortar and pestle, or blitz briefly in a small food processor, until you have a smooth paste. Set aside.

  3. Once the lamb has finished marinating, add the bacon and the blanched pork rind to the pot, then pour in the beef stock. Place the stockpot over medium heat until it just comes to a simmer. This step matters, as sealing the pot cold will add considerably to the cooking time later.

  4. While the pot warms through, make the dough seal by combining the flour and water and kneading briefly into a firm, smooth dough. Roll it into a long, thin rope, long enough to run all the way around the rim of the pot.

  5. Preheat the oven to 120°C (248°F). Press the dough rope around the rim of the pot, then set the lid on top and press down firmly to seal completely. Patch any gaps with a little extra dough so no steam can escape. Transfer to the oven and cook for 2½ hours.

  6. Just before serving, toast the bread slices lightly, spread with the garlic paste, then finish very briefly under a hot grill until warmed through and lightly coloured.

  7. Break the seal at the table or in the kitchen as it can get messy. Serve the lamb with its sauce on a plate scattered with a little parsley, with two slices of garlic toast per person. I would advise having a creamy potato purée, jacket potatoes or tagliatelle as a side dish.

NOTE

  • This stew is better the next day. If making ahead, cool completely, then reheat gently in the oven, still under its dough seal, for about 30 minutes before serving.



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BOCUSE PASTA SIDE DISH